Natural Eye Makeup Tips

How to Apply Eyeshadow, Eyeliner and Eyebrow Pencil Naturally

Step by Step Guide to Natural Eyes. Eyeshadow Selection. Color Guide. Eyeliner Advice. Eyebrow Pencil Alternatives. Eyebrow Stencil Kits. Easy…Easy….Natural Eye Makeup Tips… We recommend some of the Jane Iredale products sold through Lovely Skin as we show you how to apply your makeup and what products you can use, however, you can choose similar items from other cosmetic houses and the techniques and ideas will apply equally.

1. Getting Started: Basic Eye Makeup Application Tips:

The most often overlooked aspect of how to apply eyeshadow has nothing to do with shadow. It’s what you don’t see. And it has nothing to do with color or application. It’s about the foundation or primer you use on your eyelids and face. But it’s really one step further back….it’s about your skin….so let’s start with the basics….and don’t skip this part thinking you already know it…this is much more important than the eyeshadow application techniques we’ll teach you:

2. Before The Foundation…a Foundation

A clean complexion, a freshly washed face and well moisturized skin is the basis of all good makeup, for the eyes and the entire face. Exfoliate, cleans, wash with cleanser (NOT SOAP), pat dry, regain the PH balance of your skin with a soft tonic or toner (nothing harsh even if you have oily skin), and moisturize with a non-greasy facial moisturizer. If you are not 16 years old, then you need to give the eye area a little extra moisture because eye shadow over dry skin that’s flaky causes the sponges and brushes to tug at the delicate eyelid area while applying color or liner and this will not accent your eyes but cause uneven coloring and a caked-on look later in the day. So give those eyes a little extra moisture….let the skin absorb it….don’t be in a rush to put color on your lids….Take your time to get smooth soft skin as your foundation and never apply eyeshadow directly onto moisturized skin without a foundation or primer, you’ll just end up with your shadow caking into clumps or looking greasy, heavy or creased.

You may want to use a product by Jan Marini called Age Intervention Prime Face Primer, also sold through Lovely Skin, which is a sirum that primes the skin and refines the surface, giving better elasticity and reducing redness or irritations while moisturizing. It contains enzymes, anti-inflammatory agents, Hyaluronic Acid Microspheres for moisture delivery, white tea, red tea and green tea extracts as well as natural pomegranate, to calm and help with cellular reconstruction of the tissue, especially for sensitive areas around the eyes.

Before we discuss foundation…here’s another tip: after you’ve cleansed, applied toner and moisturizer, and given your skin a sprits of Evian or rose water, go look in the mirror. Carefully! If you see little flakes in the T-zone, around the edges of your eyes, in the brow or anywhere else on your face, do not think to yourself that the makeup or foundation will cover it up. It won’t! Start over. Use a slightly more aggressive exfoliating agent (with tiny almond or apricot granules or even very fine natural sand) and really work the flaky areas. You can also use a small loofa sponge with facial foam to eliminate flakey skin, especially on the nose, in the brow and the t-zone. No amount of ingenious eye makeup tricks will make up for flakes or dry skin in the eye area or on the nose or especially in the brow rgion. If by cleansing your skin you find it’s a little red or irritated, then try Redness Relief Soothing Cream by Avene. It’s also great for soothing the skin after being in the sun, but in general, it relieves redness and moisturizes without a greasy film. It’s available through Lovely Skin if you want to buy it online.

Now…evenly spread your foundation over your entire face and blend well with a very smooth sponge. Take your time, using concealer under your eyes and on blemished areas, but blend and blend to leave your face smooth and with an even tone. Ensure that a light base of foundation, be it liquid, mouse or oil-free powder, is all around the eyes, on the eyelid, under the eye, between the nose and the corer of the eye, above the eye to the brow bone and above the brow itself. Don’t worry about getting a little in your eyebrow hairs…at this point it doesn’t matter. We’ll deal with that later. Get a complete and even coverage first. Now, no matter if you have dry or oily skin, lightly mist your face with Evian spray or a fine mist of natural rose water.

When the skin has absorbed the mist, take a large powder brush and lightly dust your entire face and eyelids with translucent powder. Use the brush to blend and leave the skin smooth. There should be no visible trace of powder, just a smooth surface.

Now prime the eyelid and brow area with a special matte finish powder or base. You can try the Jane Iredale Lid Primer, which is a revolutionary formula of hydrated silica that helps to control oil (which you eventually get even if you have dry skin) and minimize creased shadow on your eyelids. This product also helps to draw out recessed areas of the eyelids and offers a light shimmer to the eye, bringing it to life naturally. You can also try the Jane Iredale Absence Oil Control Primer or the GloMinerals GloLid Primer which is especially great for oily skin that needs extra control.

With eyelid primed and dusted and matte powdered….and using the best long-lasting colors….please keep in mind that eye shadow, like lipstick, does not last 24 hours perfectly matte and smooth no matter what the marketing or advertising on the fancy products say. Honestly, if you get 6 to 8 good hours of smug-proof, cake-proof, oil-proof color on your lids, be happy! So…we start the fun part…adding color. You now need a natural makeup brush and the series of colors to create the look you want.

3. Eyeshadow Color Selection and Eye Makeup Techniques For Natural Eyes

There are many sets of natural colors on the market, but to show you one that’s got everything you need, we start with the Jane Iredale Perfectly Nude PurePressed Eyeshadow Kit. It has five shades that start from a flesh tone cream to a light bronzing dust called Foxy, then a darker shade called cappuccino and an antique gold. The last is a rich Copper, which may not be needed if your skin is very fair. However, with these five shades, you have all you need for natural eyes for those with fair to olive skin tones. You can use the colors wet or dry, although we recommend not to wet your eyeshadow colors when you apply them (unless used as liner), but instead add the color smoothly in powder form and then lightly mist with Evian or rose water and use a large brush to blend. It creates a more even and natural look.

We start with the cream shade and spread it over the brow and inner eye area to lighten and brighten. Mist and allow to absorb. Dust the entire area with translucent power between colors. Since you’re not trying to achieve dramatic eye makeup, keep in mind that all you want to do is mimic, and slightly accentuate, the natural shadows that a large vibrant looking eye has naturally. We achieve this by only using the darkest shades at the outer edge and the fold of the eye. You want to use a light color in the inner corner and the central part of the lid and the upper brow bone, and darker shades on the outer edges and parts of the lash lines.

To open the eye start with the cream shadow, then add a triangular shape of cappuccino starting at the upper bone area, extending outward and then down to the lower lash area angled down from where you began the triangle on the bone above the lid. Fill the area darker than you want it, then dust it with a larger brush to blend the triangle shape.

Add a touch of bronze, copper or antique gold in the crease of the eye extending outward and upward, keeping in the triangle….bring the darkest color down into your lower lash line under the eye and the eyelid lashes. Dust again with a large brush to blend. Mist between brushes and colors if you want your shadow to last longer. Don’t allow the darker shades to go above the bone area where the bone elevates into the eyebrow. This area should be lighter…but be careful. Don’t over highlight the brow bone under the eyebrow with white or frosted colors like in the 80’s. Keep it a light flesh tone; always matte; no obvious shimmer.

With the darkest color in place, take a very soft eyeliner pencil or a liquid liner. We prefer liquid to make a thin natural line within the lashes, but some people prefer a pencil. In most cases an eyeliner pencil, unless it is very soft, will pull or stretch the eyelid and it is very difficult to create a sleek line, however it can be more easily blended with a small sponge…so which you choose will depend on what you prefer.

We recommend a thin line of liquid, dark brown liner, in the lash or as close to it as possible. Remember that you just want to make your lashes appear darker and thicker at the base, you don’t want a dramatic look or heavy black eyes. The technique that professionals use when applying eye make up (to give the eyes a larger and brighter appearance) is not to line the entire eye, rather just the outer edge is darkened, then lightly blended into the lash until there is almost no liner at the center or the inner corner.

For the above palette we’ve used, with copper and cappuccino, you can use the shadow itself as liner by applying with moistened brush. Use the pencil or liquid only in the corner area. Now blend with powder on both the upper and lower lashes. Mist….wait a minute…dust the entire area with a large brush….your lid should not appear to have a lot of color, just a gentle shadow from outer edge that gradually diminishes as you get to the center of the lid and the inner eye.

The two remaining items, to finish off your look, pertain to the lashes and the brow itself. These are no less important than the shadow and the liner.

4. Liquid, Pencil and Powder Makeup For Brows

Let’s start with the brow.

Shaping and coloring the brow with a pencil is difficult, but there’s a simple way to get almost perfect color and shape using an eyebrow stencil and a brush to add the color to the hair. The Senna Form-A-Brow Kit, available through Lovely Skin, allows for anyone with brow trouble, or those who need help with shape, sparse hair or very fine or light natural coloring to get almost perfect brows. You get 3 brow powder colors which can be mixed to your ideal shade. Use the brushes to add to the hair or to create the illusion of hair while holding the shape of the stencil desired over your brow area. Choose your look with several stencil shapes, one that’s fine, another natural, a third that’s fuller and a last one that’s extra full. The one you choose will depend on your natural shape. Do not go with a shape that is very different from what’s natural to YOU. The idea is to slightly darken the hair. It should never be very dramatic.

If you already have the perfect eyebrow color pencil or powder, then just buy the stencils, like the Colorescience Eyebrow Stencils. You can choose three shapes. Hold one to your brow and color the hair, or use them while tweezing.

By the way, you can easily color your brows with a fantastic product by Jane Iredale called the PureBrow Gel Colours. These coloring devices are like a mascara brush, but specific for the brows. They come in a range of colors and can be used to make the brows darker or lighter as needed. Using one of these brushes is better than using your mascara brush because it will almost always be too dark and may also look clumpy. The brow gel is slightly different because it leaves the brow hair naturally smooth and in place. You can mix colors to achieve the most natural shade for you.

5. Finish The Eyes With Mascara

Now you need to finish your look with mascara.

Don’t use anything with sparkle. Don’t use gold or blue. Don’t use dark black unless you have natural black hair. Stay with a medium to dark brown. And most important: make sure your tube is FRESH. Mascara needs to be tossed out frequently. One a month (or at least every other month), you should be buying a new tube. Mascara will look clumpy and unnatural if it’s slightly old. It will flake and leave little specks under your eyes and ruin the natural look you are aiming for. Fresh mascara! Once a month splurge on a new tube. It’s not expensive.

Applying Mascara

Apply your mascara (on the upper lashes) from the base of the lash upward in even strokes. Do not just color the tips of your lashes. That’s one of the most common mistakes. Lashes need a solid color from base to tip. Give a little extra attention to the outer corner lashes; usually they’re the longest ones that give your eye it’s almond-like shape. Play up the longest lashes just a little. You must use mascara on your bottom lashes also. It’s a big mistake to think you’ll look more natural without it. Use less mascara, but give the bottom lashes an even coat; otherwise your eyes look unfinished.

Soften The Lashes

The way to get soft looking lashes is to first wipe your mascara brush between a cloth or strong tissue….(don’t use cotton pads because the cotton sticks to the bristles). Wipe almost all the mascara off the brush.

Now use strong strokes to do each lash from base to tip. The brush will dry quickly, so reapply and re-wipe and continue until all lashes have a good solid coat….but you will se there are no clumps or lashes stuck together.

By the way, we suggest waterproof mascara at all times. You’ll use an eye makeup remover to take it off at night anyway, so don’t risk having raccoon eyes during the day. Use waterproof.

With these tips for eye makeup, and the right supplies, anyone can have soft natural professional style makeup. Choose your eyeshadow, your eyeliner and get in front of a mirror and practice how to apply eye shadow before you have to do it in a rush, or before your wedding.

Wedding Makeup?

If you’re looking for wedding makeup tips, the best ones are going to be natural….very much like what we’ve done today, with soft cappuccino and cream colors….

Pale blues, pastels and shimmering shadows are seldom a good choice. Stick with matte and neutral colors.

Let your eyes be the focal point and not the color of your shadow! Stay away from pink eyeshadow….save the pink for blush on your cheeks…be it natural or added with a brush.

Tired Of Applying Makeup?

Do You Have Eyebrow Problems?

Then perhaps an eyebrow makeup kit isn’t the solution, and maybe another pencil or stencil kit won’t do the trick. If so, you may want to consider permanent make up or even eyebrow tattooing. If you would like more information on cosmetic tattooing or how to go about getting a procedure done, please select a related topic….some which discuss what the FDA and doctors have to say and others that help you choose the best eyebrow tattoo shop or clinic in your area.

If you’re wondering if permanent make up is right for you, then browse the post that deals with issues pertaining to micropigmentation and even read about eyebrow tattoo removal and its consequences. If you feel it might be time to toss your eyebrow kits and pencils in the garbage, then we’re here to help you with the advice you need to make an informed decision regarding a more permanent solution to brow dilemmas.

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About the editor

Nena Argent, editorial director of EbT magazine since 2009, oversees online editorial content in English and Spanish. She joined EbT after ten years as an investigative journalist in Asia where she researched oriental health, nutrition and beauty treatments. Now based in Europe, she reports on the latest beauty trends, health issues, high-tech medical advancements and state-of-the-art cosmetic procedures from around the world.

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The info in this site doesn't replace consulting with a dermatologist, micropigmentation expert, plastic surgeon or nutritionist prior to undergoing a dietary change or a cosmetic/surgical procedure.